Esxence 2026 – More brands. Greater complexity. Why guidance is becoming the most important competitive advantage. The figures for Esxence 2026, which took place from 3 to 6 June at the Allianz MiCo in Milan, are impressive: 20,227 visitors, 384 exhibitors, 408 brands from 38 countries, and 26 conference events featuring more than 60 international speakers. Yet the real insight to be gained lay not in the record figures, but in a trend that was becoming increasingly apparent amongst the exhibition stands: the market for artistic perfumery is not only continuing to grow – it is becoming more diverse, more international and more complex. For brands and retailers, this means that guidance is becoming a decisive factor for success.
Esxence 2026 – More brands and a remarkable breadth
Anyone strolling through the halls of the Allianz MiCo encountered a remarkable breadth of offerings. Alongside long-established European houses, numerous young brands from Asia, the Middle East and Latin America presented themselves with professional stands and clearly defined profiles. At the same time, one thing became clear: there is hardly a single dominant trend anymore. Minimalist brand worlds stand alongside opulent presentations, while transparent fragrance compositions sit alongside intense gourmand creations. It is precisely this diversity that makes artistic perfumery so appealing – but it also makes the market more demanding.
Diversity requires guidance – how do consumers discover these brands today?
Whilst in recent years the main question was which new brands were enriching the market, in Milan the focus shifted to another: how do consumers even find these brands anymore? The customer journey is becoming increasingly diverse. The classic recommendation in a good perfumery remains an important building block, but today it is only part of a larger, integrated system. New fragrances are now discovered in a wide variety of ways:
in curated niche and concept stores, through discovery and sampling offers, via recommendations from advocates, creators and influencers – via search engines, social media and, increasingly, AI-powered research.
Younger target groups, in particular, now gather information via several channels simultaneously. Current discussions also suggest that generative AI could play an increasingly significant role in product searches in the future. For brands, this means that visibility no longer arises from a single location. It is crucial to maintain a presence at as many relevant touchpoints as possible.
The role of the perfumery is changing – this development opens up new opportunities
This development is by no means bad news specialist retailers – rather, it opens up new opportunities. The wider the range on offer becomes, the more valuable retailers who provide guidance will be. A well-curated perfumery can tell stories, contextualise brands and make recommendations. It is not the largest selection that defines a brand’s profile, but the right selection.
This shift was also evident at Esxence itself. Alongside traditional owner-managed perfumeries, numerous concept stores, buying groups, distributors and agencies were represented. Many discussions centred less on individual fragrances and more on fundamental questions: Which brands fit into the range in the long term? Which concepts work in one’s own market? And which international developments deserve particular attention?
As a result, Esxence is increasingly evolving from a pure trade fair focused on order placement to a platform for market observation, exchange and strategic analysis.
Knowledge becomes a competitive advantage – learning from other markets
This development was also reflected in the conference programme. Topics such as artificial intelligence, social media, Asian markets and new distribution models were just as much on the agenda as traditional fragrance topics. The focus was less on short-term trends and more on the question of how brands can remain visible in the long term within an increasingly fragmented market.
My panel, ‘Three Speeds of Asia – Korea, Vietnam, Indonesia’, also fitted into this context. The discussion made it clear that Asian markets are developing in very different ways and that one-size-fits-all strategies are hardly effective anymore. Anyone wishing to grow internationally must understand local dynamics – and be prepared to learn from other markets.
Where is the journey heading? Guidance, credibility and consultancy are gaining in importance
Esxence 2026 demonstrated that artistic perfumery is entering a new phase. In future, growth will be driven less by individual ‘hype brands’ and more by the ability to navigate an ever-increasing variety of options. This presents a real opportunity for specialist retailers: guidance, credibility and personalised advice are becoming increasingly important – qualities that cannot simply be replaced by digital alternatives.
Retailers and brand managers should take three key insights from Milan:
- Firstly: Keep an eye not only on new brands, but also on new ways in which customers discover fragrances. The customer journey is becoming more diverse – ranging from specialist retail and sampling schemes to digital and AI-powered information sources.
- Secondly: Sharpen your profile. In a market with hundreds of brands, brand recognition is not achieved through size, but through a clear curatorial signature and compelling recommendations.
- Thirdly: Stay curious on the international stage. Today, inspiration for successful product ranges comes from far more regions than just the traditional fragrance capitals. Those who recognise and contextualise developments early on gain a genuine competitive advantage.
The next edition of Esxence will take place from 24 to 27 February 2027
The next edition of Esxence will take place from 24 to 27 February 2027. Anyone wishing to play an active role in shaping the future of artistic perfumery should make a note of this date now. Because one thing became clear in Milan: the number of possibilities continues to grow – and with it, the opportunities for all those who are prepared to break new ground
[Text: Dr. Bodo Kubartz – Passion and Consulting/Photo: Esxence]
